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Author: Subject: Basic Audio System Info for NOOBS
Paseo15psi
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wink.gif posted on 9/23/08 at 08:17 AM
Basic Audio System Info for NOOBS


Quick Information:
Paseo 1992-1995/ Tercel 1991-1994:
Stock Size = 4" Front and 6 3/4" Rear
Alt Size = 4T, 5", 5 1/4" Front* and 6 1/2", 6S, 7" Rear
*Note: Tercel front door speakers are more limited due to the configuration and depth of the door panel and speaker cover. Use a Paseo door panel for all options.

Paseo 1996-1999/ Tercel 1995-1999:
Stock Size = 4" Front and 6 3/4" Rear
Alt Size = 4T, 5", 5 1/4", 6 1/2"* Front and 6 1/2", 6S, 7" Rear
*Note: In order to mount 6 1/2" in the front doors you will have to remove the stock speaker covers and use the one that came with your new speakers. Surface mounting is required. Shallow mount speakers are also required. Also, the rear speakers in a convertible Paseo are in the side panels next to the rear seats.

Shallow mount speakers are suggested in all installs (front AND rear). Spacers or custom mount brackets may be required for alternate size speakers. XTC speaker baffles and sound dampen is very highly recommended. Non-amped front speakers below 5 1/4" would benefit from using a pair of bass blockers or a high-pass filter.

The following information was added in 2008 and is a bit more detailed:

This is just to answer a few questions before they are asked.

The Toyota Paseo and Tercel from 1991-1999 had the same size speakers and radio opening in every year. Most came equipped with a cassette player with a DIN sized storage pocket. The speakers were almost always paper cone, with foam surrounds and no tweeters. Front speakers usually blow from too much bass and the rear deteriorate from exposure to the sun. Each speaker does have it's own positive and negative, so no common ground issues in this system. The antennas often go bad though. Proper maintenance of the antenna is to lube it with silicon grease every 6 months to a year. Here are your specs:

Front Speakers
4T is the official size. A 4 inch will be the easiest to find, but a 5 inch or a 5 1/4 will work depending on the magnet and basket size. Fitting a 6 1/2 is very tough unless you have experience in custom installs. Again, shallow mount speakers are recommended, especially if upgrading the speaker size.

Rear Speakers
I believe the official size is called a 6S, but 6 3/4" is the best fit as far as what is easier to find. You can install a 6 1/2" or a 7", but both require either mods to the rear deck or a spacer. Remember, huge magnet speakers won't fit because of the torsion bars for the trunk. Don't install 6"x9" speakers. It is too much work and round speakers have better sound quality. If you want the extra bass, just install 6 1/2" free air subs back there and sound proof the rear deck. Base models may not always have rear speakers.

Stereo
The stereo cavity is an ISO mount Dual DIN opening. You can mount a Single DIN radio with a pocket, or a Dual DIN radio. You will need the original factory stereo and pocket hardware to install a stereo. The antenna is a normal Motorola Standard. I suggest that you use the aftermarket stereo wire harnesses. That way it is easier when you need to change the radio.

Good luck in your audio endeavors! I did not list part numbers for harnesses because the stereo harness is the same for all years, and the speaker harnesses change and you don't know which until you remove the speaker. Check out http://www.The12volt.com for diagrams and instructions. Or the following link for step by step install instructions with pictures.


Paseo Performance Info Stereo install PDF

Edited to lessen confusion.




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wink.gif posted on 9/23/08 at 08:18 AM
Stereo Install


First off let me say this. If at all possible I suggest professional install if you are a total noob at wiring. This is especially true if you have a car with airbags. The Tercels and Paseos with airbags pose a big potential problem for the new installer. The reason is that the SRS module shares most of it's power connections with the stereo and the cigarette lighter. If you just go disconnecting and/or cutting wires without following proper procedure you could throw an SRS code and possibly damage the SRS sensor. That could cause sudden airbag deployments which are dangerous. Plus that sensor cost between 200 and 390 dollars to replace. A used sensor can be used, but only from a car where the bags where never deployed. Now on to the install and SRS car procedure.

Install: I suggest that you get the plug and play harnesses from Best Buy/Circuit City/local stereo shop/ whatever. This is the best way. If you have a stock DIN pocket you will not need an install kit. If you have the double stack or that blank plate, you will need a Toyota install kit or a universal DIN pocket. A panel popper, 10MM nut driver or socket, 90 degree pick tool, 10mm box wrench (racheting if possible) and maybe a #2 phillips is all you need for this job. Ofcourse disconnect and take note of connecters as you proceed with the install. You will need a DIN sized radio (2" tall by 7" wide).

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal with the box wrench.
2. Wait atleast 90 seconds before unplugging anything. This allows the SRS and any other systems to discharge and loose memory.
3. Use the pick tool (in conjunction with the panel popper if need be) to pop off the radio surround.
4. Remove the 4 screws on the sides of the radio with the nutdriver or socket. I have seen #2 phillips screws in these spots, but it is usually 10mm screws.
5. Remove radio and pocket. Unplug harness and antenna. Use #2 phillips to remove two screws on the sides holding the radio to the brackets.
6. Reverse directions using new radio and harnesses.


Notes: Circuit City and others have specific harness that require NO splicing at all. The ones from Best Buy and others will require that you match the radio harness to their aftermarket matching harness.

Whenever you use crimp connects, always use high quality ones. I suggest 3M. If your radio and harness is missing or was stolen than you will need to connect with crimps or by soldering (my preference). If using the Best Buy style harness you will have to crimp or solder. In the next article I will list the stock stereo wire colors incase your radio was ripped off or ripped out.




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wink.gif posted on 9/23/08 at 08:19 AM
Stereo Wire Colors


This is the simple part. The wire colors are the same from 91-99. Here is the list.

+12V constant (Batt) - Blue-Yellow stripe
+12V switched - Gray
Ground - Brown
Right Front Speaker - Light Green pos/Blue neg
Left Front Speaker - Pink pos/Violet neg
Right Rear Speaker - White pos/Red neg
Left Rear Speaker - Yellow pos/Black neg




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wink.gif posted on 9/23/08 at 08:19 AM
Amp Install Tips


Amplifier Installation Tips


A power amplifierís performance is only as good as its installation. Proper installation will maximize the systemís overall performance. It is recommended that you have your amp installed by a professional. However, if you decide to install it yourself, please follow these safety tips and take your time to do a quality installation:


1. Add a fuse or circuit breaker to the main power wire between the amplifier and the vehicle battery.

2. Be sure to fuse the power wire within 18 inches of the car's battery. This will protect the car's battery in case of a short circuit between the power amplifier and battery. THIS IS A MUST, the amplifier's built-in fuse will only protect the power amplifier not the car's battery.

3. Use high-grade wire connectors. Use proper power wire size for maximum current transfer and safety. Improper size power and ground wire can reduce the amplifiers power and poses a risk of damage to the amplifier and the vehicles electrical system. Please follow the recommended "Amplifiers Power Cable Requirements" to ensure maximum power transfer and safety.

4. Do not run any wires underneath the vehicle. Exposed wires have a chance of being cut or damaged. It is best to run all wires through the vehicle under the carpet and/or side panels. This makes for a cleaner installation and less risk of damage.

5. Use caution when mounting the amplifier. Remember there are many electrical wires, gas lines, vacuum lines, brake lines, as well as a gas tank in the automobile. Make sure you know where they are when mounting the amplifier to avoid puncturing lines, shorting wires, or drilling holes in the gas tank.

6. To avoid possibility of induced noise from the car's electrical system (i.e. popping noises or engine noise), keep the signal wires (Speaker or RCA) away from any electrical wires.

7. In order to reduce the chance of ground loops (i.e. engine noise); make the grounding wire as short as possible to reduce the wire's resistance. Also, when using multiple components, make sure all units are grounded at the same point.

8. Avoid sharp edges when running the wires. When laying wiring inside the car, watch for welding burs in channels throughout the car. If necessary adequately grind, finish sand or fill in around any rough spots so wires will not be punctured by sharp protrusions. Use a grommet to protect the wire when running through the firewall.




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wink.gif posted on 9/23/08 at 08:21 AM
Power Cable Sizing


Power Cable Selection Chart

Selecting the power and ground wire size is an important part of the amplifier's performance and safety. Remember the lower the number the thicker wire. Thicker wire delivers more current when needed. In order to select the proper gauge wire you will need to determine the maximum current draw of all amplifiers and processors that you will connect with this wire. You will also need to determine the length of wire needed to connect from the battery to the location you mount your amplifiers.

Recommended Wire Gauge

The following chart is the recommended wire size based on the systems current draw and length of wire needed:

http://img125.imagevenue.com/loc690/th_30547_part_collect_banner1_122_690lo.jpg




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wink.gif posted on 9/23/08 at 08:22 AM
Power Requirement Tips


Power Requirement Tips



Determining the current capabilities of your vehicle.

Before installing a High Current amplifier in your system you should take into consideration the vehicleís ability to provide adequate current to the amplifier. Most vehicles alternator's are only capable of supplying a little over the requirements for the standard OEM electrical system (i.e. headlights, air conditioning etc). How you play your system will determine the amount of current you will need. For example if you listen to your system at low volume levels, you will use less than one-third the rated current draw of the amplifier. If you play your system loud, then you will use most of the rated current of the amplifier.

Most alternators have about a 40 percent reserve capability. To determine how many amperes of current you will have for your system, you will need to find out what your alternator is rated to produce. If you are not sure of the total amperage of your alternator, a good place to look is on the alternator itself. Most alternators have a metal tag stating the total amperage available. If you cannot find the tag, check with the manufacture to find out the rated amperage. Once rated current of the alternator is determined, you need to multiply this number by .40 to determine the reserve current output available for use with your power amplifier.

For Example: Alternator = 80 Amps 80 x .40 = 32 Amps

Please keep in mind this is an estimate only. Variations in actual output are common. It is best to get your charging system tested by a professional to determine your electrical systems true capabilities.


Calculating Amplifier Current Demands

By using the total fuse values of the amplifier, you can get an idea of the amount of current draw that will be demanded under full output power. Although the full output rating is good to determine the total amperage draw in the system, it does not represent the true continuous or averaged amperage draw in the system. Listed below is a simple way to determine the approximate continuous current draw of your amplifier.

1. Determine total fuse value of the amplifier. (Many Amplifiers have multiple fuses built in, simply add the values of all fuses.)

2. Divide the RMS power rating by the Peak power rating.

Example: 50 Watts RMS Divided by 100 Watts Peak Power = .50 (50%)

Once you figure the percentage of RMS vs. Peak power, you multiply the fuse value of the amplifiers by the RMS percentage.

For Example: If the amplifiers fuse value were 30A, then 30A multiplied by 50% would be 15A of continuous current draw.


Upgrading Your Electrical System

Depending on your systems current requirements vs. your electrical systems capabilities, you may need to upgrade your charging system. For example when you are driving at night, if you find that you headlights dim when you have your system cranked up, this is a sign you should upgrade your electrical system.

There are several different ways out to accomplish this; one way is to upgrade the alternator so that it has higher amperage output. Another way is to purchase a Capacitor. We recommend consulting your Car Audio Retailer to determine what is best for your system.

Rule: There is no Voltage without a reference to "Ground".

When installing any High Current amplifier, and/or upgrading any vehicles charging system, it is important that you also increase the "Ground Potential" of the vehicle.

This is easily done at the OEM battery location. Additional negative power leads from the OEM battery to the vehicles body panel, fender bolt, or any clean bare metal attachment point will allow substantially more current to flow throughout the vehicle.

The additional ground lead(s) should be the same gauge wire as the primary positive feed wire(s) or larger if applicable.




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[*] posted on 9/24/08 at 12:55 AM


as a note, the stock front speakers for the 2nd gen convertibles were 4" and the rears were 6.5"



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[*] posted on 9/24/08 at 07:51 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by paseo2nr
as a note, the stock front speakers for the 2nd gen convertibles were 4" and the rears were 6.5"


Or the same as mentioned. The only major difference is that the rear speakers are in the side panels next to the seat instead of the rear deck.




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[*] posted on 9/24/08 at 10:13 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Paseo15psi
Quote:
Originally posted by paseo2nr
as a note, the stock front speakers for the 2nd gen convertibles were 4" and the rears were 6.5"


Or the same as mentioned. The only major difference is that the rear speakers are in the side panels next to the seat instead of the rear deck.

how is that the same as noted? I didn't see a convertible mention.




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[*] posted on 9/25/08 at 10:34 AM


Same size, different location in the rear. Didn't need to make a distinction. How can I make it more clear than that?



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[*] posted on 9/25/08 at 02:58 PM


well, the fronts are 4", not 4.5".

Good information overall though.




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[*] posted on 9/25/08 at 03:51 PM


Did you read the entire thing? Forget it, I'll just edit it. The entire article was written years apart.



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[*] posted on 9/25/08 at 07:50 PM


lol not really. I don't have the patience. I just searched for convertible and no result came up, so I thought I'd try to help you out by providing those sizes.



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[*] posted on 10/10/08 at 07:45 AM


No prob man. Could you lock this thread? Don't want it to be question and answer. Just needs to be an information dump. I'll let you know if I need to add more or change something.



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